Geometric repetition of linear, symmetrical stepped lines and balanced angles were created in high-contrast materials such as rock crystal and black onyx, supported by backdrops of colourless diamonds; equally pleasing are juxtapositions of brightly coloured jade, lapis lazuli and coral; Tutti-Frutti dominates composed of carved ruby, emerald and sapphire leaves; countless popular themes were inspired by an obsession with the exotic ideas of Orientalism, Japonisme and Chinoiserie, as well as the timely discovery of the tombs of the Egyptian Pharaohs.
Accents of tiny, calibré-cut synthetic gems were embraced as a desirable nod to the industrial prowess of the era. Convertible double-clip brooches are typically shield or mitre-shaped and broad strap bracelets feature disciplined meandering rows and borders. These highly collectible jewels are synonymous with a glamour that directly crosses over into modern sensibilities.
An Art Deco Jadeite, Onyx, Diamond and Platinum Jabot Pin, by Lacloche Frères, circa 1920
Each broad terminal featuring a stylised geometric palmette plaque decorated with jadeite arches and onyx bars, further accented by pierced and stepped diamond-set motifs, mounted in platinum, signed Lacloche Frères, French assay marks
Estimate: $2,000-3,000 CADLot Details
An Art Deco Diamond, Onyx and Platinum Ring, circa 1930
Centering a round diamond weighing 3.18 carats, each shoulder accented with a rectangular onyx panel and a trio of small round diamonds, mounted in platinum
With report 5202135346 dated 13 March 2019 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the diamond is J colour, VS2 clarity
Estimate: $12,000-15,000 CADLot Details
An Art Deco Onyx, Sapphire, Diamond and Platinum Brooch, by J.E. Caldwell & Co., circa 1925
The openwork rectangular onyx frame decorated with mitre-shaped terminals accented by sapphires and baguette-cut and round diamonds, mounted in platinum, signed JEC & Co. and numbered L4466
Estimate: $3,400-3,800 CADLot Details
An Art Deco Diamond and Platinum Brooch, circa 1930
The large pierced geometric plaque centering an Asscher-cut diamond weighing approximately 1.25 carats, decorated throughout with round, old European and baguette-cut diamonds weighing approximately 10.80 carats, mounted in platinum
Estimate: $6,000-9,000 CADLot Details
An Art Deco Jadeite, Diamond, Ruby and Platinum Dress Clip Brooch, circa 1925
The carved oval jadeite measuring 10.2 mm by 38.5 mm by 2.8 mm, depicting flowers and leaves, accented by trapezoid-cut and round diamonds and cabochon rubies, mounted in platinum
With report 5201259637 dated 8 May 2019 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the jadeite jade is natural colour. No indications of impregnation.
Estimate: $4,600-5,000 CADLot Details
An Art Deco Diamond, Emerald and Platinum Ring, circa 1920
The oval plaque centering a bezel-set old European-cut diamond weighing approximately 2.40 carats, amid a geometric slightly bombé ground decorated with round diamonds and calibré-cut emeralds, to diamond-set shoulders, mounted in platinum
Estimate: $5,000-6,000 CADLot Details
An Art Deco Pair of Lapis Lazuli, Diamond and Platinum Ear Pendants, by Cartier, circa 1930
The pair of oval lapis lazuli drops suspending from articulated geometric stepped lines and stylised palmette surmounts decorated by round and square diamonds, mounted in platinum, signed Cartier and numbered 843
Estimate: $5,000-7,000 CADLot Details
An Art Deco Emerald, Diamond and Platinum Ring, circa 1920
Centering a sugarloaf emerald weighing approximately 2.90 carats, flanked by tapering channels of calibré-cut emeralds, amid scalloped diamond borders, mounted in platinum
Estimate: $3,000-4,000 CADLot Details
Art Deco Diamond and Platinum Bracelet by Cartier, circa 1925.